University  of  California  •  Berkeley 

The  Peter  and  Rosell  Harvey 

Memorial  Fund 


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First  Episcopal  Church  Erected  in  Tacoma,  Wash.   See  page  24. 


mi  OCEAN  TO  OCEAN 


WITH 


NOTES  AND  OBSERVATIONS  ON 
THE  WAY. 


BY 

REV.   ANDREW  SHILAND,   D.D. 


NEW    Y  O  K  K  : 

FOR  SALE  BY  AMERICAN  TRACT  SOCIETY, 

150  Nassau  St.  and  404  Fourth  Ave. 

1892. 


FREDERICK    H.  PINNEY, 

Steam  Printer  and  Manufacturing  Stationer 

533-537  pearl  street,  new  york. 


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Cl^AWSp    I. 

©N  tlie  eleventh  day  of  May,  1892,  I  found  myself 
comfortably  seated  in  a  palace  car,  starting  from 
the  Grand  Central  depot  in  New  York  city.  Our 
train  consisted  of  nine  palace  cars,  containing  the 
commissioners  and  visitors  to  the  General  Assembly  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church  to  convene  on  the  19th  of  May 
in  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  of  Portland,  Oregon. 

Nothing  of  particular  interest  occurred  till  we  reached 
Chicago.  There  the  train  passed  slowly  by  the  fair 
grounds  and  we  had  a  good  view  of  the  exhibition 
buildings  now  in  process  of  erection  for  the  display  of 
the  world's  productions  in  all  that  pertains  to  the  civil- 
ization and  enlightenment  of  this  last  decade  of  the 
nineteenth  century. 

From  Chicago,  we  started  on  our  way  after  some 
three  hours  delay,  with  twenty-seven  palace  cars,  div- 
ided into  three  sections — first,  second  and  third — each 
section  of  nine  cars  drawn  by  a  powerful  locomotive. 
We  were  in  the  second  section.  Col.  Eliot  Shepherd 
happened  to  be  with  us  on  his  way  to  Omaha  to  deliver 
an  ad^^ress  on  'The  Sabbath,  or  Fourth  Command- 
ment "  before  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Conference  in 
that  city.     The  members   of  the  Conference   sent  the 


delegates  aud  friends  on  their  way  to  Portland  an  invi- 
tation to  stoj)  for  a  couple  of  hours  that  the  representa- 
tives of  the  great  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  might 
give  a  cordial  reception  to  our  representatives  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church  Avith  kindly  Christian  greetings. 
We  would  have  been  delighted  to  have  visited  the  Con- 
ference, bufc  the  officials  of  our  trains  said  they  could 
not  wait  for  such  a  reception,  however  desirable,  be- 
cause the  trains  were  behind  time  and  must  move  on. 

At  Niles,  Michigan,  Col.  Shepherd  had  ordered  at  his 
own  expense  a  superb  dinner  for  all  on  board  the  train, 
and  gave  a  full  half -hour  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  ex- 
cellent viands  provided  by  his  though tfulness  and  gen- 
erosity. While  we  were  at  the  tables  a  beautiful  young- 
woman  came  in  with  a  basketful  of  lovely  roses  of  dif- 
ferent colors  and  deposited  very  gracefully  a  large  rose 
beside  the  plate  of  every  guest.  It  was  well  done  and 
gratefully  received  as  unexpected.  Of  course  thanks 
were  tendered  to  Col.  Shepherd  and  speeches  made 
suited  to  the  occasion. 

On  Sunday,  at  five  in  the  morning,  we  found  oursel- 
ves safely  in  Salt  Lake  City.  The  cars  were  side-tracked 
and  we  were  allowed  to  occupy  them  as  lodings  while 
there  or  go  to  hotels  for  rooms  if  we  chose  to  do  so. 
Some  engaged  rooms  in  the  hotels  for  the  sake  of  a 
change.  You  know  that  sleeping  on  a  shelf  even  in  a 
palace  car  is  not  very  agreeable  or  comfortable.  You 
can  stand  it  for  two  or  three  nights,  but  when  you  con- 
tinue it  for  seven  nights  in  succession  it  becomes  some- 
what tiresome. 

Sunday  morning  I  went  out  to  find  a  cup  of  hot 
coffee.  There  was  a  coffee  stand  or  saloon  near  the 
station  into  which  I  entered  and  found  what  I  wanted. 

4 


It  being  early,  no  one  was  present  but  the  owner  of  the 
establishment  and  myself,  I  took  the  liberty  of  asking 
him  two  or  three  questions.  I  said  are  you  a  Mormon  ? 
He  replied  ;  "  Yes,  I  am  a  Mormon,  through  and 
through."  I  then  asked  him,  "How  many  wives  have 
you  ?  "  He  answered,  "  I  have  but  one,  but  if  I  could 
afford  it  I  would  have  three  or  four !  !  "  He  told  me 
that  his  mother  was  a  Mormon  and  brought  him  from 
England  when  he  was  sixteen  years  old.  All  the  Evan- 
gelical Churches  in  Salt  Lake  City  were  supplied  by 
the  ministers  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  w^ho  were 
resting  and  keeping  the  Sabbath  holy.  In  the  after- 
noon we  went  to  the  tabernacle  to  witness  the  general 
assembling  of  the  Mormons  for  worship,  x4.ll  the  visi- 
tors are  seated  in  front  of  the  congregation  and  immed- 
iately facing  the  president,  elders,  bishops  and  other 
high  dignataries  of  the  Mormon  Church.  President 
Woodruff,  who  occupies  the  highest  seat,  is  eighty-six 
years  old,  and  with  snow  white  hair  presents  a  vener- 
able ajDpearance.  Behind  the  officials  is  the  great  or- 
gan— one  of  the  largest  in  the  country.  The  choir  con- 
sisted of  350  voices — some  say  500.  All  the  singers 
were  thoroughly  trained.  Among  the  pieces  sung  was 
the  Alleluia  chorus.  I  never  heard  such  enchanting 
music.  It  seemed  grand  and  inspiring  beyond  power 
to  express.  Elder  Penrose  preached  the  sermon. 
He  is  an  eloquent  and  fluent  speaker  and  occupied 
nearly  an  hour.  I  could  agree  with  all  of  the  first  half 
of  the  sermon,  but  the  latter  part  spoiled  it  all.  While 
he  was  speaking,  bread  and  water  were  distributed  to  all 
in  that  vast  congregation — little  and  big,  old  and 
young.  Next  to  myself  sat  a  Mormon  with  three  women 
at  his  right  and  each  with  a  young   child  on  her  lap — 


perhaps  bis  wives.  I  noticed  that  when  the  basket, 
filled  with  small  pieces-of  bread,  was  passed  and  offered 
to  the  mother  and  child,  the  mother  took  one  piece  of 
the  bread,  but  her  little  one  grabbed  a  whole  handful. 
A  little  mchin  when  the  cup  of  water  was  passed,  being- 
thirsty,  drank  nearly  all  of  it.  The  services  were  inter- 
esting and  impressive  in  its  way,  but  none  of  the  Gen- 
tiles partook  of  the  elements,  although  offered  to  every 
one  present.  I  suppose  that  there  were  at  least  a 
thousand  of  us  in  the  tabernacle  at  this  service.  I  know 
of  one  minister,  a  D.  D.,  who  remained  outside  and  re- 
fused to  go  in  on  the  ground  of  conscientious  scruples. 
He  thought  that  his  presence  at  the  religious  service  of 
this  queer  people  would  lend  countenance  to  Mormon- 
ism  ;  I  experienced  no  difficulty  of  that  kind. 

The  tabernacle  is  unattractive  on  the  outside,  but  in 
side  it  is  spacious  and  imposing.  It  can  seat  ten  thous- 
and persons.  Its  accoustic  properties  are  perfect.  A 
whisper  or  the  fall  of  a  pin  at  one  end  of  the  gallery  can 
be  distinctly  heard  at  the  other  end.  The  roof  is  an 
immense  dome  covering  the  whole  building  and  resting 
upon  the  exterior  walls  without  a  centre  support  of  any 
kind.  The  building  is  eliptical  in  form,  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  long  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide, 
and  eighty  feet  from  floor  to  ceiling.  The  structure 
has  twenty  doors,  nine  feet  wide,  affording  ready  egress 
in  case  of  emergency.  From  the  outside  the  building 
looks  like  a  huge  whale's  back  or  an  immense  turtle 
with  it's  tail  cut  off.  It  is  located  in  what  is  called 
*'  The  Sacred  Square  of  the  Latter-day  Saints."  It  em- 
braces ten  acres  and  is  surrounded  by  a  high  adobe 
wall  for  protection.  Within  this  enclosure  is  the  Salt 
Lake  Temple,  a  beautiful  structure  now  approaching 

6 


completion.  Recently  the  top-stone  was  laid  witli  im- 
posing ceremonies.  The  comer-stone  was  laid  April 
Gth,  1853.  It  has  been  in  process  of  building  for  forty 
years.  In  the  basement  is  a  baptistry  57  feet  long  by 
35  feet  in  width.  On  the  top  of  the  highest  tower,  200 
feet  from  the  ground,  stands  a  gilt  angel  called  Maroni 
with  a  long  horn  in  his  right  hand  blowing  vigorously 
towards  the  East. 

A  minister  going  along  the  street  on  the  Sabbath 
saw  two  little  boys  playing  marbles.  He  thought 
this  a  good  opportunity  to  do  some  missionary  work. 
He  said  to  the  boy  who  had  his  marble  poised  on  his 
thumb  and  finger  ready  to  shoot  it,  "  Boy  do  you  know 
what  day  this  is  ?  "  He  fired  his  marble  and  then  turn- 
ing to  his  companion  said,  "  See  here,  Jim,  this  darned 
fool  don't  know  Sunday." 

Salt  Lake  City  is  situated  in  a  basin  surrounded  by 
lofty  mountains  which  are  covered  with  snow.  It  has 
an  area  of  more  than  10,000  acres.  The  blocks  or 
squares  are  ten  acres  each.  The  streets  are  one  hundred 
and  thirty-two  feet  wide,  and  through  some  of  them, 
next  to  the  side-walk  flows  large  streams  of  water.  In 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city  the  streets  are  eighty  feet 
wide.  The  shade  trees  with  their  rich  foliage  add 
greatly  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  city.  In  fact  it  is 
beautiful  for  situation  and  like  a  richly  cultivated  gar- 
den. When  Brigham  Young  came  here  in  1847,  July 
24th,  with  his  142  hardy  pioneers  the  valley  was  a  bar- 
ren desert,  now  it  appears  clothed  in  beauty  like  a  para- 
dise. 

There  are  two  principal  lines  of  cars,  run  by  electric- 
ity, by  which  you  can  be  carried  to  Camp  Douglass, 
where  several  hundred  soldiers  are  quartered  and  are 

7 


provided  for  as  tlie  cadets  are  at  West  Point.  From 
this  station  you  can  see  the  whole  city  and  all  the  val- 
ley, 21  miles  long.  It  presents  a  picturesque  landscape 
of  unequaled  beauty.  The  electric  lines  are  owned, 
one  by  the  Gentiles  and  the  other  by  the  Mormons. 
There  is  rivalry  between  them.  When  the  first  electric 
car  was  running  at  great  speed,  a  Chinaman  looked  at 
it  with  amazement  and  was  confounded,  as  he  saw  no 
horses  attached  and  no  apparent  means  of  propulsion, 
he  exclaimed,  "No  pull  ee,  no  push  ee,  go  all  the 
same  ee." 

When  the  United  States  troops  were  established  at 
Fort  Douglas,  Brigham  Young  sent  the  commandant 
a  message  that  he  wanted  to  see  him.  The  commandant 
went  to  see  Brigham.  The  Mormon  Chief  informed  him 
that  he  wanted  him  and  his  soldiers  to  get  away  from 
that  encampment  as  soon  as  possible.  The  officer 
looked  Brigham  sternly  in  the  face  and  said,  "  I  have 
my  guns  trained  on  your  Tabernacle  and  your  houses, 
and  the  moment  you  make  any  trouble  I  will  blow  them 
all  to  atoms."  Brigham  Young  after  that  was  meek  and 
submissive  as  a  lamb. 


C^Af^TEp  II. 

/I\N  the  22d  of  May,  at  10  P.  M.,  we  went  on  board 
V^     the  steamer  State  of  California  for  San  Francisco. 

I  thought  that  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presby- 
terian Church  of  the  United  States  could  manage  the 
Briggs  case,  the  Eevision  of  the  Creed  and  all  other 
matters  that  might  come  before  that  venerable  body 
without  my  presence.  Although  my  name  was  called 
in  the  matter  of  voting  as  I  did,  dismissing  the  case 
of  Dr.  Briggs,  I  was  not  there  to  respond  to  it. 

Going  from  Portland  down  the  Columbia  by  night, 
and  being  in  my  berth  trying  to  sleep  in  spite  of 
the  jar  and  noise  of  the  machinery,  I  can  give  you 
no  account  of  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  the  river. 
The  next  morning  about  daylight  we  found  ourselves 
fast  on  the  sandbar  in  sight  of  Astoria.  It  was  low 
tide  and  we  could  not  move  an  inch.  The  passengers 
amused  themselves  by  watching  the  fishermen  casting 
their  nets  and  drawing  in  the  salmon.  An  interesting 
feature  of  their  method  of  fishing  was  the  use  of 
horses.  Men  on  horseback  waded  out  as  far  as  they 
could  go,  hitched  on  to  the  rope  and  drew  in  the  very 
long  seines  with  their  heavy  load  of  salmon  weighing 
from  ten  to  sixty  pounds  each.     The  horses  had  a  hard 

9 


pull,  but  they  appeared  to  enjoy  the  sport.  We  saw 
the  big  fish  splashing  the  water  as  they  were  drawn 
near  the  shore.  At  high  tide  the  island  and  the  fisher- 
men disappeared,  and  our  steamer  passed  over  the 
sand-bar  with  all  ease,  and  we  fastened  to  the  Astoria 
dock.  We  were  there  an  hour  or  more  putting  off  and 
taking  on  freight.  In  the  meantime,  one  or  two  of  the 
passengers  and  myself  made  straight  for  the  largest 
cannery  in  Astoria,  if  not  in  the  country.  We  went  on 
an  electric  car,  were  soon  inside  of  the  immense  estab- 
lishment and  saw  all  the  operations  of  preparing  and 
canning  these  delectable  fish  to  be  sent  all  over  the 
world.  A  lady  who  had  visited  a  f actor}"  told  me  that 
if  I  saw  the  way  these  canning  establishments  were 
conducted  I  would  never  more  eat  salmon.  I  can  only 
say  that  in  this  large  factory  everything  was  clean  and 
orderly.  The  Avorkmen  were  nearly  all  of  them  China- 
men, but  they  appeared  to  understand  the  business 
and  kept  themselves  and  the  premises  neat  and  clean. 

Below  the  bar  the  Government  has  built  a  jetty 
about  five  miles  long  and  is  still  extending  it  for  the 
purpose  of  deepening  the  channel.  More  than  two 
millions  of  dollars  have  been  expended  on  this  import- 
ant work. 

Leaving  Astoria,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  broad 
Pacific  ocean,  of  which  I  had  often  read  and  heard  but 
had  never  seen.  The  weather  was  all  that  could  be 
desired,  yet  the  sea  was  rough  or  chopj)y  and  most  of 
the  passengers  were  seasick  and  did  not  relish  the 
experience  of  this  sort  of  thing.  I  became  acquainted 
with  the  captain,  a  pleasant  Christian  gentleman  and 
the  son  of  a  Baptist  minister.  He  formerly  ran  a 
steamboat  from  Sag  Hai-bor  and   knew  many  persona 

10 


on  the  east  end  of  Long  Island  of  whom  he  made  par- 
ticular inquiries.  We  were  nearly  all  the  way  out  of 
sight  of  land,  saw  the  spouting  of  whales  very  fre- 
quently, and  were  folloAved  all  the  way  by  large  flocks 
of  birds  of  the  sea-gull  species,  but  much  larger — I 
have  forgotten  the  name.  They  kept  near  the  steamer, 
feeding  upon  the  scraps  thrown  overboard. 

We  steamed  through  the  Golden  Gate  and  fastened 
to  the  wharf  about  5  A.  M.  of  Wednesday.  We  hurried 
off  to  the  great  Palace  Hotel  and  there  occupied  rooms 
while  remaining  in  the  city.  I  need  not  tell  what  you 
already  know,  viz.,  that  this  is  one  of  the  largest 
hotels    in   the  world  and  cost  six  millions  of  dollars. 

In  San  Francisco  they  have  the  most  efficient  and 
perfect  system  of  cable  and  electric  cars.  The  East- 
ern cities,  so  far  as  I  know,  are  far  behind  the  cities 
of  the  Pacific  coast  in  this  respect. 

If  some  of  those  men  of  the  east  end  of  Long  Island 
now  living,  who  went  to  San  Francisco  for  gold  in 
1849,  were  to  visit  that  region  now,  they  would  think 
that  they  had  fallen  into  a  new  world.  What  was 
then  a  succession  of  sand  hills,  barren  and  desolate, 
is  now  a  magnificent  city  of  three  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants.  They  would  see  long  streets  of  great 
stores  and  warehouses,  public  buildings  not  inferior 
to  any  in  New  York  city.  California  street  is  the  Fifth 
avenue  of  San  Francisco,  and  on  this  street  are  the 
palatial  residences  of  most  of  the  millionaires  of  the 
city  of  the  Golden  Gate.  It  is  much  more  beautiful 
and  attractive  than  any  street  in  New  York.  A  cable 
road  runs  its  whole  length  to  the  Cliff  House,  which 
overlooks  the  whole  city;  also  Oakland  and  all  the 
waters    of    a   most    capacious    and    beautiful    harbor. 

11 


Looking  clown  from  the  Cliff  House  you  see  near  by 
at  your  feet  the  rocks  upon  which  the  sea  lions  con- 
gregate for  frolic  and  sunshine.  They  bellow  night 
and  day.  Their  voices,  coarse  and  hoarse,  are  heard 
above  the  roar  of  the  waves  that  break  upon  their 
rocky  rookery.  Some  of  them  are  very  large,  The 
biggest  fellow  is  estimated  to  weigh  eighteen  hundred 
pounds. 

I  went  through  the  streets  of  the  Chinese  quarters. 
I  did  not  enter  their  holes  or  dens.  I  could  see  enough 
to  satisfy  me  from  the  outside.  They  occupy  the  best 
section  of  the  city,  not  far  from  its  centre,  and  many 
own  their  buidings  or  lease  the  land  for  ninety-nine 
years.  They  are  packed  together  in  small  nooks  and 
corners,  noisesome  and  repulsive  to  the  last  degree. 
You  may  imagine  how  they  live  when  I  tell  you  that 
one  building  84x100  feet  and  four  stories  high  contained 
seventeen  hundred  persons. 

They  bunk  as  thick  as  peas  in  a  pod,  in  the  cellars 
under  the  sidewalks  and  wherever  they  can  find  space 
to  sit  or  bundle  up.  I  doubt  if  any  slum  in  New  York 
city  can  present  a  like  picture  of  condensed  degrada- 
tion and  w^retchedness.  I  met  with  a  gentleman  from 
Philadelphia  who  had  a  letter  from  the  Chief  of  Police 
of  that  city  to  the  Chief  of  Police  in  San  Francisco.  He 
and  a  few  of  his  friends  were  assigned  a  policeman  who 
knew  all  about  the  inner  life  of  the  Chinese  quarter, 
from  the  lowest  cellar  to  garret.  They  were  taken 
through  in  the  night  time  when  Chinatown  is  seen  in  its 
worst  and  most  repulsive  aspects.  He  said  "I  w^ould 
not  have  missed  it  for  twenty-five  dollars,"  but  he  added 
"I  would  not  go  through  it  again  for  fifty."  I  do  not 
wonder  that  the  people  of  the  Pacific  coast  do  not  wish 

12 


any  more  Cliinameli  brought  into  this  country.  Their 
morals  and  their  habits  of  life  are  terribly  demoralizing. 
The  great  mass  of  them  do  not  and  will  not  assimilate 
with  Americans.  They  do  not  care  a  rush  for  our  insti- 
tutions. They  make  all  the  money  they  can,  send  it 
back  to  China  and  if  they  die  in  this  country  make  pro- 
vision for  the  transportation  of  their  bones  to  their 
Flowery  Kingdom. 

It  is  not  to  be  denied  that  the  Gospel  by  the  grace  of 
God  can  reclaim  and  save  the  lowest  and  the  vilest  of 
any  tribe  or  nation.  But  it  is  also  a  fact  that  of  all  the 
thousands  of  these  people  in  this  country,  comparatively 
few  of  them  have  been  truly  converted  to  God  and  be- 
come real  Christians.  This,  however,  is  no  argument 
against  our  working  for  their  salvation.  This  much 
must  be  said  in  their  favor  ;  they  are  industrious  and 
hardworking,  but  opium  and  gambling  are,  both  their 
besetting  and  upsetting  sins  working  their  ruin  both  in 
body  and  soul. 

Oakland,  three  miles  across  the  bay,  is  a  large,  pros- 
perous and  growing  city.  It  is  to  San  Francisco  what 
Brooklyn  is  to  New  York.  Thousands  do  business  in 
the  city  but  live  in  Oakland,  w^hich  for  beauty  of  situa- 
tion, j)icturesque  and  lovely  scenery  and  surroundings 
can  scarcely  be  surpassed  in  any  country. 

AVe  left  San  Francisco  in  the  evening  so  as  to  have 
the  daylight  for  viewing  the  magnificent  mountain 
scenery  on  the  line  of  the  railroad  to  Portland.  At 
Shasta  Springs  the  conductor  allowed  five  minutes  for 
the  passengers  to  drink  the  waters  of  this  mineral 
fountain  not  twenty  feet  from  the  road.  A  jet  of  water 
shot  up  a  hundred  feet  into  the  air,  falling  in  fine  spray 
upon  the  rocks  beneath.     The  water  is  agreeable  to  the 

13 


taste  and  is  said  to  possess  valuable  medicinal  proper- 
ties. A  little  farther  on  we  came  to  Shasta  station. 
There,  right  in  front  of  us,  rose  up  in  majestic  grandeur 
Mount  Shasta  14,444  feet  high.  Covered  with  snow 
from  peak  to  base  it  x^resented  a  scene  imposing  and 
solemn  that  can  be  felt  but  not  described.  It  was  four- 
teen miles  distant,  but  so  transparent  was  the  atmos- 
phere it  did  not  appear  to  us  more  than  three  or  four 
miles  from  where  we  stood.  Such  a  picture  photo- 
graphed upon  the  eye  becomes  engraved  upon  the 
mind  and  never  can  be  forgotten.  It  inspires  awe  and 
reverence  for  Him  who  created  the  world  and  all  things  ; 
who  formed  the  sea  and  the  land  and  erected  lofty  in- 
accessible mountain  peaks,  gigantic  symbols  of  his  ma- 
jesty and  power. 


U 


ef^AP^PEp  III. 


HEN  I  wrote  from  Salt  Lake  City  I  forgot  to 
mention  that  the  Union  Pacific  officials  gave  us 
an  excursion  to  Garfield  Beach  on  the  shore  of  Salt 
Lake,  distant  twenty  miles.  There  were  about  a  thou- 
sand of  us  altogether,  and  we  enjoyed  the  scenery,  so 
peculiar,  picturesque  and  impressive.  Mountains  cov- 
ered with  snow  shining  in  the  sunlight,  though  twenty- 
eight  miles  away,  do  not  seem  more  than  five,  so  clear 
and  transparent  is  the  atmosphere.  The  facilities  for 
bathing  are  ample;  the  buildings  well  constructed, 
artistic  in  form,  kept  painted  and  cleanly.  The  water 
of  the  lake  is  22  per  cent,  of  pure  salt,  twice  as  much 
as  the  water  of  the  Dead  Sea.  I  took  a  mouthful  of  it 
and  found  it  very  salt  and  I  think  it  would  preserve 
pork  indefinitely.  About  a  dozen  men  and  one  woman 
went  in  for  a  bath  and  enjoyed  it  exceedingly.  It  was 
impossible  to  sink  when  stretched  out,  face  or  back 
down.  One  inhaling  the  water  in  the  mouth  or  nostrils 
AVould  be  in  danger  of  strangling.  During  June,  July 
and  August  large  numbers  of  people  visit  the  place, 
and  it  becomes  a  great  pleasure  resort,  full  of  life  and 

animation. 

15 


•  I  saw  Brigham  Young's  grave,  plain  and  simple;  the 
monument  only  a  slab  of  marble;  only  an  iron  fence 
enclosing  it,  so  far  as  I  could  see.  It  is  located  in  one 
corner  of  a  large  enclosure,  large  enough  to  hold  the 
bodies  of  all  his  wives  and  children.  Probably  he  did 
not  know  all  of  his  own  children.  It  is  told  of  him 
that  one  day  walking  along  the  street  he  saw  a  ragged 
and  dirty  boy.  He  said  to  him,  "Boy,  who  is  your 
father?"  The  little  urchin  replied,  "My  father  is  Brig- 
ham  Young." 

I  saw  a  number  of  the  aborigines  in  Salt  Lake  City. 
Some  of  them  are  enlisted  as  soldiers  in  the  regiment 
at  Camp  Douglass.  The}^  are  of  the  Sioux  tribe ;  they 
make  good  soldiers,  and  those  whom  I  saw  were  tall 
and  straight  as  an  arrow.  At  the  depot  Avere  a  number 
of  the  uncivilized,  dressed  in  their  peculiar  way,  and  I 
suppose  waiting  for  something  to  turn  up.  If  I  had 
with  me  a  kodak  I  could  have  taken  a  very  striking 
picture,  worthy  of  a  place  in  an  art  gallery.  On  the 
platform  of  a  freight  car  Avere  huddled  together  two 
Indian  women  with  three  children.  The  old  squaw, 
with  an  ugly  and  forbidding  face  resembling  that  of 
the  man  in  the  moon,  coarse  features  and  skin  much 
like  sole  leather,  had  charge  of  the  two  older  children 
and  kept  them  from  falling  off  their  dangerous  perch. 
The  younger  squaw;,  apparently  the  daughter  or  daugh- 
ter-in-laAv,  held  in  her  arms  a  babe  (or  pappoose)  bound 
to  a  board  about  two  feet  long  and  a  foot  wide.  The 
child  seemed  to  be  some  two  or  three  months  old  and 
was  bandaged  and  corded  like  an  Egyptian  mummy  to 
the  board,  where  it  could  not  move  hand  or  foot.  We 
desired  to  see  its  face,  but  the  mother  kept  it  turned 
away  from  our  view,  and  all  our  motions  Avere  in  vain 

16 


till  at  length  some  one  passed  her  a  nickel;  then  she 
turned  the  face  of  the  little  tot  to  our  view.  It  was 
a  comical  sight;  nothing  could  be  seen  but  a  small, 
round,  chubby  face,  peaceful  and  contented,  making  no 
noise  or  movement  w^hatever.  When  the  mother  jour- 
neyed she  could  sling  her  treasure  over  her  head  by  a 
strap;  when  she  camped  she  could  hang  it  up  on  a  peg 
or  on  the  limb  of  a  tree  to  be  rocked  by  the  wind;  if  in 
her  wigwam  she  could  set  it  up  in  a  corner  or  against 
the  side  without  any  danger  of  the  child's  getting  into 
the  fire  or  falling  into  a  vessel  of  hot  w^ater,  as  often 
happens  in  enlightened  Christian  households.  This 
Indian  method  of  fastening  a  child  to  a  board  has  its 
advantages. 

We  left  Salt  Lake  City  for  Portland  on  Monday  even- 
ing at  half-past  seven.  At  Laramie,  next  station  be- 
yond Cheyenne,  576  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City,  the  train 
made  a  stop  for  some  twenty  minutes,  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  passengers  and  citizens  assembled  on  the  plat- 
form and  several  of  us  were  introduced  to  Mr.  McNight, 
who  is  county  judge  and  a  resident  there  for  25  years. 

At  Dalles,  1,140  miles  further  on,  we  rested  twenty 
minutes  for  breakfast.  On  the  table  there  was  a  huge 
salmon  on  exhibition  weighing  65  pounds,  caught  the 
night  before — one  of  a  catch  of  twenty  tons.  Talking 
with  an  old  resident  who  had  lived  there  for  forty 
years,  he  told  me  that  when  he  came  to  Dalles  the  sal- 
mon when  they  went  up  the  Columbia  river  to  spawn 
were  so  large  and  so  thickly  packed  that  he  could  walk 
on  their  backs  across  the  river !  ! !  Whether  this  state- 
ment, be  true  or  not,  it  is  a  fact  that  the  salmon  are  at 
times  so  closely  crowded  that  a  man  can  throw  them 

out  on  the  bank  with  a  pitchfork. 

17 


At  Bonneyville  we  took  the  steamboat  for  Portland, 
distant  80  miles.  The  change  from  the  cars  to  the  boat 
was  a  great  relief  after  having  been  on  the  rail  for  3,300 
miles.  The  scenery  on  the  Columbia  is  wonderful  in 
variety  and  beaut3^  We  reached  Portland,  the  cosmo- 
politan city  of  the  Northwest  Pacific  coast,  on  Wednes- 
day evening  at  about  six  o'clock.  Portland  is  a  sub- 
stantial and  beautiful  city  of  75,000  inhabitants,  situated 
on  the  Willamette  river  twelve  miles  from  its  junction 
with  the  Columbia.  The  next  day  after  our  arrival  we 
took  the  cable  road  for  the  Portland  Heights.  The  cars 
took  us  up  along  inclines,  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a 
Dutch  barn,  with  great  rapidity  and  in  perfect  safety. 
On  these  Portland  Heights  the  grandest  panorama  of 
natural  scenery  I  ever  beheld  greeted  my  eyes  and  rav- 
ished my  senses.  Tliere  in  one  direction  stood  Lit. 
Hood,  11,952  feet  high  rising  up  to  the  heavens  sixty 
miles  east  of  Portland  in  solemn  grandeur,  covered  with 
snow  from  top  to  bottom.  In  an  other  direction  you 
see  Mt.  Adams  9,570  feet  high  seventy  miles  north,  and 
Mi  Rainier  160  miles  north  14,414  feet  high,  also  Mt.  St. 
Helens  sixty  miles  north  of  Portland  and  also  Mt.  Jef- 
ferson eighty  miles  southeast  of  the  city  9,000  feet  high. 
The  da}'  was  clear  and  bright  with  sunshine,  so  that  we 
could  see  all  these  lofty  peaks  distinctly,  and  though  so 
far  off,  did  not  appear  to  our  vision  one-third  of  the  dis- 
tance. No  power  of  language  can  do  justice  to  scenery 
so  imposing  and  sublime.  I  think  it  would  be  w^ell  for 
Americans  to  visit  the  magnificent  scenery  to  be  found 
in  their  own  country  before  they  go  to  Europe  and  come 
back  boasting  of  what  they  have  seen  in  foreign  lands, 
perhaps  to  the  disparagement  of  their  own.  Some  of 
them  try  to  be  English  "  don't  you  know." 

18 


I  had  the  pleasure  of  dining  with  ex-Senator  Corbett. 
He  and  I  were  natives  of  the  8ame  town  and  went  to  the 
same  academy  in  Cambridge,  Washington  county,  New 
York.  He  came  to  Portland  forty  years  ago,  when  there 
were  but  four  hundred  inhabitants,  and  started  in  busi- 
ness and  has  grown  up  with  the  place.  He  came  to 
stay  and  is  now  many  tiiues  a  millionaire.  He  was 
United  States  Senator  during  the  late  war  and  made  a 
good  record,  doing  all  in  his  power  to  put  down  the  re- 
bellion. No  man  has  done  more  to  build  uj^  Portland 
than  Mr.  Corbett  and  no  man  stands  higher  in  the  esti- 
mation and  respect  of  the  people.  After  dinner  he  took 
me  in  his  carriage  drawn  by  a  splendid  pair  of  bay 
horses  and  escorted  me  over  all  the  interesting  points 
and  gave  me  a  rich  treat  which  I  shall  remember  for- 
ever. We  lived  over  again  the  scenes  of  our  boyhood 
and  youth,  recalling  old  friends  and  events  of  our 
earlier  days.  We  bade  each  other  good-bye  with  sor- 
row, feeling  that  we  would  not  probably  meet  again  till 
we  clasp  hands  in  our  Father's  house  of  many  mansions 
where  separations  are  unknown. 


19 


©N  the  Pacific  coast  oysters  are  very  good  but  very 
small.  When  made  into  soup  you  could  seek  in 
vain  for  any  oysters,  but  the  flavor  is  there  all  the  same. 
One  might  eat  a  hundred  or  more  and  not  feel  satisfied. 
It  is  related  of  a  lady  from  Portland  visiting  New  York 
City  that  she  desired  to  try  some  Blue  Points,  of  which 
she  had  heard  so  much  but  which  she  had  never  seen. 
Accordingly  she  gave  orders  to  the  waiter  at  the  hotel 
to  bring  to  her  room  one  hundred  oysters  fresh  from 
the  shell.  The  astonished  waiter  went  to  the  clerk  tell- 
ing him  that  the  lady  occupying  room  No.  125  had  or- 
dered one  hundred  oysters  for  herself.  The  clerk  open- 
ed wide  his  eyes  and  then  went  to  see  if  the  order  was 
correct.  She  informed  him  that  she  knew  what  she 
wanted  and  desired  her  order  to  be  filled  as  soon  as 
j)racticable.  "All  right,"  said  he,  and  politely  bowed 
himself  out  of  her  room.  Imagine  her  surprise  when 
half  a  dozen  waiters  came  to  her  room  and  deposited  on 
her  table  ten  plates  of  oysters  for  her  own  delectation. 
She  could  eat  not  more  than  ten  and  there  were  ninety 
lucious  bivalves  left.  She  then  discovered  the  difference 
between  the  oysters  of  the  Pacific  and  those  of  the  At- 
lantic coast. 

20 


After  sOme  five  thousand  miles  of  travel  by  land  and 
sea,  it  is  a  satisfaction  and  a  pleasure  to  find  ourselves 
on  our  way  homeward.  After  all,  there  is  no  place  like 
home,  be  it  a  palace  or  a  cottage.  Having  crossed  the 
continent  on  the  Union  Pacific  we  chose  the  Northern 
Pacific  for  our  return.  We  deviated  from  our  course  at 
one  point  in  order  to  take  in  Puget  Sound  and  Victoria 
by  way  of  variety.  Victoria  is  some  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  north  of  Portland.  AVe  go  by  rail  145  miles 
to  Tacoma,  thence  by  steamboat  to  Victoria.  Puget 
Sound  may  be  called  the  Mediterranean  of  this  part  of 
the  world.  It  contains  many  islands  and  inlets  with 
deep  and  capacious  harbors.  Its  coast  line  is  1,843 
miles.  The  strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  80  miles  in  length 
and  with  a  width  of  from  11  to  25  miles,  connect  it  with 
the  Pacitic  ocean.  The  scenery  on  every  side  is  varied 
and  beautiful.  The  snowy  cascades,  the  Olympian  and 
above  all  Mount  Tacoma.  rising  in  majestic  grandeur  as 
if  to  pierce  the  very  heavens,  and  its  snowy  mantle 
glistening  in  the  sun-light,  making  it  conspicuous  from 
afar,  presents  a  magnificent  picture  of  sublime  and  sol- 
emn beauty  that  must  stamp  itself  upon  the  mind  of 
the  beholder  forever  more. 

Victoria  is  located  on  the  Island  of  Vancouver  and  is 
English,  you  know.  It  contains  some  25,000  inhabi- 
tants ;  its  buildings  are  substantial  and  solidly  built, 
but  rather  dingy  and  unattractive.  Viewed  from  a 
Yankee  standpoint,  it  is  fifty  years  behind  the  age. 
The  people  do  not  open  their  places  of  business  till  10 
A.  M.,  and  promptly  close  at  4  P.  M.  On  the  Queen's 
birthday  they  close  for  three  days  and  have  a  general 
good  time.  It  is  doubtful  if  they  ever  have  among 
them  any  cases  of  nervous  prostration  from  overwork. 

21 


This  is  a  sensible  way  of  living  and  Americans  might 
preserve  health  and  length  of  days  by  imitating  their 
example. 

Tacoma  and  Seattle  are  rival  cities,  the  former  contain- 
ing 50,000  and  the  latter  45,000.  Each  doubtless  has 
its  own  advantages.  Their  location  on  the  shores  of 
this  great  inland  archii^elago  is  in  every  way  favorable 
to  their  rapid  growth  and  jDrosperity.  The  push, 
energy  and  enterprise  of  the  people  are  amazing.  For 
many  reasons  we  would  prefer  Tacoma  to  any  other 
city  on  Puget  Sound.  It  seems  to  have  a  substantial 
and  healthy  growth.  Fifteen  miles  of  cable  and  electric 
lines  are  completed  and  twenty  more  are  under  way. 
Starting  out  in  the  morning  we  asked  a  gentlemen, 
standing  on  the  corner  of  a  street,  to  direct  us  as  to 
what  lines  to  take  in  order  to  see  the  most  of  the  city 
in  the  shortest  time.  He  not  only  directed  us  but  got 
on  the  car  and  rode  with  us  for  two  hours,  pointing  out 
the  public  buildings  and  elegant  residences  and  their 
distinguished  owners.  Coming  back  to  our  starting 
point,  this  same  gentlemen  conducted  us  through  a 
great  saw-mill,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  employ- 
ing 1,500  men  and  turning  out  250,000  feet  of  lumber 
per  day.  The  buzz-saws,  six  feet  in  diameter,  one  above 
the  other  running  with  lightening  speed,  cut  up  a  log 
five  feet  in  diameter  into  inch  boards  in  less  than  ten 
minutes.  The  next  day  this  gentleman  called  at  our 
hotel  with  his  horses  and  carriage  and  invited  us  to 
take  a  drive  with  him  out  into  the  environs  of  Tacoma, 
Avhich  of  course  we  accepted.  He  took  us  out  of  the 
city  some  four  miles  to  Edison,  where  the  Northern 
Pacific  Company  has  recently  established  a  plant  for 
the  building  of  locomotives  and  cars,  investing  a  mil- 
lion of  dollars.  22 


Here  on  the  broad  rolling  prairie  is  growing  rapidly 
a  thriving  town  already  connected  with  the  city  of 
Tacoma  by  electric  cars,  which  in  the  near  future  will 
make  both  cities  one.  To  give  some  idea  of  the  rapid 
increase  in  the  value  of  property  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Tacoma  we  will  relate  the  following  incident :  Six 
years  ago  a  man  and  his  wife  from  Troy,  N.  Y.,  came  to 
this  city  for  better  or  worse.  He  bought  a  quarter 
section  of  Government  land,  160  acres,  at  two  dollars 
and  fifty  cents  an  acre.  It  was  less  than  three  miles 
from  the  centre  of  the  city.  His  title  was  contested 
and  while  it  was  in  litigation  he  was  so  poor  that  he 
acted  as  sexton  in  the  Presbyterian  Church  and  his  wife 
took  in  washing.  Finally  the  decision  of  the  court  was 
in  his  favor.  His  160  acres  which  he  bought  for  four 
hundred  dollars  are  now  worth  one  million  dollars. 
We  were  told  also  of  another  man,  who  came  to  Tacoma 
twenty  years  ago  with  only  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
in  his  pocket  and  he  has  no  more  now. 

The  gentlemen  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  so  much 
kindly  attention  and  pleasure  is  Mr.  George  "W.  Traver, 
whose  office  is  402  and  403  Merchants  National  Bank, 
Tacoma,  Washington.  We  saw  still  standing  the  large 
building  erected  for  the  revival  services  of  Rev.  Fay 
Mills.  It  is  made  of  rough  boards,  temporary  of  course, 
and  capable  of  holding  seven  or  eight  thousand  per- 
sons. The  structure  was  completed  and  ready  for  use 
in  ninety-six  hours.  Their  promptness  and  energy  in 
getting  ready  for  the  labors  of  the  celebrated  evangelist 
show  that  while  tiie  people  of  Tacoma  are  intensely  in 
earnest  in  the  things  of  this  world,  some  of  them  at 
least  have  an  eye  to  the  things  of  the  world  to  come. 

We  were  shown  the  house  which  George  Francis 
23 


Train  occupied  for  several  months  for  rest  and  recuper- 
ation on  his  return  from  his  journey  around  the  world. 
It  is  small  and  unattractive,  only  such  as  an  eccentric 
character  would  be  likely  to  select  for  even  a  temporary 
habitation.  It  is  not  exactl}^  a  lodge  in  the  wilderness, 
but  it  is  a  lodge  among  tall  and  blackened  stumps, 
where  he  could  let  his  imagination  run  riot  and  his 
thoughts  range  and  rage  at  his  own  sweet  will  with 
none  to  molest  or  disturb  his  solitary  meditations. 

Near  the  great  saw-mill,  of  which  mention  has  been 
made,  stands  the  first  Episcopal  Church  erected  in 
Tacoma.  It  attracts  attention  by  reason  of  its  unique 
bell-tower.  This  consists  of  the  trunk  of  a  large  tree 
cut  oft*  some  sixty  feet  from  the  ground.  At  its  top  is 
the  little  belfry  in  which  swings  the  bell  that  sends 
forth  in  clear  and  ringing  tones  the  call  for  the  people 
to  come  up  to  the  house  of  God  for  worship.  An  in- 
clined plane  or  stairway  extends  from  the  roof  of  the 
church  to  the  top  of  this  peculiar  structure.  Its  archi- 
tecture surpasses  that  of  your  Sfc.  Andrew's  By-the-Sea. 

Near  Tacoma  there  is  an  Indian  Reservation  compris- 
ing eighteen  thousand  acres  of  rich  and  valuable  land. 
Six  hundred  Indians  claim  it  or  own  it.  The  interest 
on  the  value  of  the  land  at  the  present  time  would  give 
to  each  man,  woman  and  child  fifteen  hundred  dollars 
a  year. 

You  have  not  the  space  to-  spare  in  your  paper  for  the 
tenth  part  of  what  we  could  relate  of  this  remarkable 
city  that  would  be  of  interest  to  the  readers  of  the  Sea- 
Side  Times.  Suffice  it  is  to  say  that  it  bids  fair  to  be- 
come a  great  metropolis  because  of  its  immense  re- 
sources. Its  large  and  extensive  commercial  movement 
in^heat,  coal  and  lumber  ;  its  shipping  relations  with 

24 


all  ports  of  the  Pacific  coast  and  also  with  the  ports  of 
China  and  Japan  are  a  promise  and  pledge  of  its  per- 
manency and  future  greatness.  May  it  grow  great 
morally  and  spiritually  as  well. 


25 


IN  leaving  Tacoma,  the  subject  of  our  last  letter,  we 
passed  by  some  fift}^  stations  of  which  more  or  less 
might  be  said,  and  find  ourselves  in  Spokane, 
nearly  four  hundred  miles  from  Tacoma.  This  growing 
and  thriving  city  is  near  the  eastern  border  of  Wash- 
ington. It  contains  more  than  26,000  inhabitants  and 
occupies  a  beautiful  plateau  on  both  sides  of  the  Spo- 
kane River — a  clear,  sparkling,  dashing  stream  of  con- 
siderable volume  with  a  descent  of  150  feet  in  the  course 
of  half  a  mile.  Here  are  a  series  of  water-falls  and 
rapids  forming  little  Niagaras,  the  resort  and  admira- 
tion both  of  citizens  and  strangers.  It  is  estimated 
that  this  stream  can  develop  more  than  two  hundred 
thousand  horse-power.  As  it  never  freezes  and  never 
grows  less  in  volume  and  its  constant  supply  can  al- 
ways be  depended  u]3on,  it  can  readil}^  be  seen  how  great 
is  its  utility  to  the  city.  It  furnishes  the  power  for 
lighting  the  city  streets  and  dwellings  with  electricity, 
and  runs  a  number  nf  manufacturing  establishments. 
Three  years  ago  the  entire  business  portion  of  the  city 
was  burnt,  involving  a  loss  of  ten  millions  of  dollars. 
AVithin  one  year  it  was  rebuilt  with  substantial  and 
palatial  structures  worth  three  million  dollars  more 
than   the   x^i'operty   destroyed  by   the    disastrous   fire. 

26 


Being  the  terminal  centre  of  several  branch  lines  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  and  also  having  other  railroad  facili- 
ties, it  is  brought  into  connection  with  a  vast  extent  of 
farming  and  mining  regions  which  contribute  immensely 
to  the  steady  growth  and  wealth  of  this  j^oung  me- 
tropolis of  a  Northwestern  empire.  It  is  surrounded 
by  vast  forests  of  valuable  timber,  beautiful  mountains, 
fertile  vales,  and  here  and  there  picturesque  lakes- 
Cereals  and  fruits  of  all  kinds  in  rich  abundance  reward 
the  labors  of  the  husbandman.  What  would  you  think 
of  a  beet  weighing  ten  pounds  and  a  squash  almost  as 
large  as  a  flour  barrel.  Hop  raising  is  one  of  the  great 
industries  both  of  Washington  and  of  Oregon.  The 
largest  and  most  productive  hop  fields  in  the  world  are 
•  found  in  these  valleys,  where  th«  soil  is  so  deep  and 
rich  that  unfailing  and  abundant  crops  have  been 
gathered  fifteen  years  in  succession.  The  soil  in  some 
places  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep  ;  the  roots  of 
the  hop  vines  meeting  with  no  obstacle  extend  from 
four  to  nine  feet.  Think  of  this  ye  Lond  Islanders  who 
have  to  expend  so  much  money  for  fertilizers  in  order 
to  produce  a  fair  showing  of  grain  or  produce  of  any 
kind. 

Washington  and  Oregon  may  be  called  the  Pennsyl- 
vanias  of  the  Pacific  coast,  with  this  advantage,  a  mild 
and  equable  climate,  so  that  in  many  places  beautiful 
flowers  flourish  and  bloom  out  of  doors  all  the  winter. 
Twelve  years  ago  Washington  contained  a  population 
of  ninety  thousand,  it  now  has  three  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand. 

We  spent  the  Sabbath  in  Spokane  and  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  Presbyterian  clergyman  whose  instal- 
lation over  the  church,  to  which  he  had  been  recentlv 

27 


called,  took  place  on  Sunclaj  evening.  There  was  a 
large  and  attentive  audience  and  the  services  were  in- 
teresting and  impressive.  The  leaven  of  the  Gospel  is 
silently  and  surely  working  its  w  ay  iu  all  the  towns  and 
cities  of  the  Great  West.  Faithful,  self-denying  min- 
isters of  Christ'  are  found  everywhere  for  the  building- 
up  of  the  Kingdom  of  God,  which  opposes  all  wicked- 
ness and  must  ultimately  triumjli  over  the  world,  the 
flesh  and  the  devil.  More  than  1.500  missionaries  are 
laboring  under  the  Presbyterian  Church. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  on  the  north  side,  there 
is  a  ravine  some  two  hundred  feet  deep  with  a  very 
steep  bank  and  through  it  runs  a  stream  of  clear  w^ater. 
It  has  received  the  name  of  Hangman's  Creek  from  the 
circumstance  that  some  3'ears  ago  fifty  Indians  were 
there  hanged  for  the  brutal  murder  of  two  white  men- 
The  white  citizens  took  the  matter  into  their  own  hands* 
Fifty  Indians  were  convicted  for  having  participated  in 
the  horrid  crime.  Five  of  them  were  led  out  of  j^rison 
each  day  and  executed  by  hanging  till  the  whole  fifty 
were  disposed  of  and  sent  into  eternity.  Hence  the 
name  "Hangman's  Creek."  Thirty-five  miles  southeast 
of  Spokane  is  an  Indian  Reservation  of  many  thous 
ands  of  acres  of  very  rich  and  valuable  land.  Eecently 
the  U.  S,  Government  bought  all  but  1,250  acres  which 
have  been  reserved  for  the  aboriginees,  while  thro  wing- 
open  to  white  settlers  the  whole  northern  jDortion. 
There  were  six  hundred  Indians  and  each  man,  woman 
and  child  received  from  ''Uncle  Sam"  fourteen  hundred 
dollars. 

We  once  more  take  the  cars  for  Helena,  nearly  400 
miles  from  S23okane.  Helena  is  the  capital  of  Montana 
as  every  school  boy  knows.     It  is  located  on  a  sloping 

28 


ravine  some  twenty  miles  in  extent,  surrounded  by  hills, 
and  in  the  distance  are  seen  lofty  mountain  chains  with 
snow  covered  peaks  that  sj)arkle  in  the  sunshine  with 
lustre  inimitable.  The  j^opulation  of  Helena  is  about 
fifteen  thousand  and  its  linanciai  and  commercial  insti- 
tutions with  their  surplus  and  undivided  profits,  show 
that  it  is  the  wealthiest  city  in  the  world  of  its  size,  or 
at  least,  in  America,  as  is  proved  by  its  per  capita  bank 
deposits.  We  cannot  be  surprised  at  this  when  we  con- 
sider the  inexhaustable  mineral  treasures  of  gold  and 
silver  found  within  the  bounds  of  Montana.  The  out- 
put for  1891  was  fifty  million  dollars.  The  Granite 
Mining  Company  turns  out  monthly  350,000  ounces  of 
silver.  The  city  is  built  upon  soil  more  or  less  golden. 
The  old  galches  formerly  so  rich  in  the  precious  metal, 
have  been  filled  in  and  streets  run  over  them  v/ith  stores 
and  dwellings.  We  were  told  of  a  man  who  lately  in 
digging  a  cellar  took  out  six  hundred  dollars  in  gold 
which  he  secured  from  the  sand  in  fine  particles.  The 
foundations  of  the  city  of  Helena  are  somewhat  golden 
to  say  the  least.  But  its  morals  are  not  exactly  of  that 
character.  Saloons  and  gambling  hells  are  licensed  to 
run  every  day,  Sundays  included.  They  abound  and 
i:>Sij  a  thousand  dollars  a  year  each  for  the  privilege  of 
destroying  the  morals  of  the  community  and  ruining 
the  body  and  souls  of  men.  From  what  we  saw  we 
were  comj^elled  to  conclude  that  while  there  might  be  a 
little  of  Heaven  in  Helena,  there  was  obviously  a  great 
deal  more  of  the  other  place  in  that  city. 

One  of  the  chief  objects  of  interests  to  the  visitor  is 
the  Natatorium  built  by  Col.  C.  A.  Broadwater.  A 
native  of  Missouri,  he  went  to  Montana  when  a  young 
man  and  identified  himself   with  the  interests  of  the 

29 


commoiiAvealtli  from  its  beginning.  He  was  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Montana  National  Bank,  interested  in 
extensive  mining  and  financial  affairs  throughout 
the  State  and  had  accumulated  several  millions 
of  dollars.  He  took  special  pride  in  planning  and 
building  this  Natatorium  at  Helena  Hot  Springs- 
It  is  two  miles  from  the  city  and  connected  by  two 
lines  of  electric  cars  running  at  the  rate  of  twenty 
miles  an  hour.  There  is  probably  no  larger  or  finer 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  The  bathing 
13ool-300  by  100  feet — is  covered  with  a  vaulted 
roof  of  stained  glass  of  many  colors,  presenting  an  en- 
chanting effect  when  the  streaming  sunlight  floods  the 
rippling  waters  and  gilds  the  merry  bathers  with  radiant 
prismatic  hues.  The  water  supply  comes  in  over  a 
double  cascade  of  granite  rocks  forty  feet  high  at  the 
rate  of  a  million  of  gallons  a  day,  one  portion  hot  and 
the  other  cold  By  the  mingling  of  these  streams  any 
temperature  desired  can  be  produced.  We  would  like 
to  look  into  the  kitchen  of  Mother  Nature  and  see  how 
she  heats  the  water  in  the  subterranean  dej)ths,  whether 
by  chemical  action  or  by  real  fire.  These  waters  have 
valuable  medical  properties  and  the  Hotel  Broadwater 
has  become  a  celebrated  health  and  summer  resort. 
Both  the  hotel  and  the  natatorium  are  built  in  Moorish 
style,  of  beautiful  form  and  architecture,  with  all  the 
appliances  and  conveniences  that  science,  art,  skill  and 
wealth  can  command.  Col.  Broadwater  died  very  sud- 
denly about  two  weeks  before  our  visit  to  Helena,  and 
his  funeral  was  attended  by  a  vast  concourse  from  all 
parts  of  his  State  and  many  neighboring  States,  as  well. 
He  is  spoken  of  as  a  broad-minded  man,  of  great  public 
spirit  and  business  capacity,  w^ith  generous  instincts  ; 
affable,  approachable  and  kind  to  the  poor. 

30 


In  the  early  history  of  Montana  there  was  no  territo- 
rial government,  nor,  indeed,  any  other  than  the  law  of 
self  preservation.  Each  camp,  for  the  sake  of  safety 
and  better  order,  elected  a  judge,  and  he  appointed  a 
sheriff,  who  held  office  as  long  as  it  suited  the  majority. 
Finally  it  was  thought  best  to  elect  a  sheriff  for  the 
whole  region.  A  notorious  character  by  the  name  of 
Henry  Plummer  was  chosen.  He  selected  fellow  ruf- 
fians as  his  deputies,  and  in  one  year  this  heartless  and 
hellish  gang  murdered  more  than  one  hundred  citizens 
whose  bodies  were  found.  When  this  became  known, 
vigilant  committees  were  organized  among  the  miners, 
and  very  soon  Plummer  with  many  of  his  infamous 
associates  met  with  swift  retribution  at  the  end  of  a 
rope.  Col.  Broadwater  adroitly  misled  two  desperados 
who  followed  him  the  distance  of  132  miles,  which  he 
covered  in  eighteen  hours.  He  broke  down  his  fast 
horse,  but  fortunately  secured  another  from  a  ranch- 
man and  thus  made  his  escape.  He  had  in  belts  around 
his  person  thirty-two  pounds  of  gold  dust.  For  this 
he  was  to  have  been  killed,  and  that,  too,  by  men  who 
were  personal  acquaintances.  That  he  was  to  be  way- 
laid and  robbed  was  made  known  to  him  by  one  of  the 
gang  whom  he  had  formerly  befriended. 

Gold,  silver  and  copper  are  not  the  only  abundant 
productions  of  Montana — a  State  three  times  larger 
than  Ohio — but  thousands  of  square  miles  of  coal  under- 
1  e  its  surface.  Its  enormous  acreage  for  grazing,  farm- 
ing and  agricultural  products  must  in  time  surpass  in 
wealth  all  its  mines  of  gold. 

But  we  must  not  delay  any  longer  in  this  Eldorado 
accordingly  we  board  the  train  for  St.  Paul,  1,181  miles 
from  Helena.     It  is  a  long  ride,  and  yet  it  is  not  weari- 

31 


^551 

some  or  monotonous,  because  all  along  the  wa}^  are 
sights  and  scenes  that  attract  attention  and  awaken 
thought.  We  passed  within  fourteen  miles  of  the  place 
where  General  Custer  and  his  men  were  massacred  by 
the  redskins.  We  arrived  at  Minneapolis  in  time  to  be 
present  when  the  Kepublican  Convention  glorified  itself 
in  the  nomination  of  Harrison  a  second  term  for  Presi- 
dent. 

And  now  in  conclusion,  to  sum  up  the  whole  matter, 
in  all  our  8,500  miles  of  travel,  we  prefer  as  a  permanent 
place  of  residence  New  York  State  and  city,  including 
Southampton  (in  summer),  to  any  place  we  have  seen. 


"^ 


S^ 


"^ 


'SaW 


